by Roger Naylor Special for The Republic Mar. 26, 2010 04:10 PM
John Stanley/The Arizona Republic A magical world of sinuous sandstone curves and filtered sunlight awaits hikers who venture into Lower Antelope Canyon, on the Navajo Reservation near Page.
More than any other feature, Arizona is defined by canyons. All across the state, those great gouges in the landscape harbor scenery and secrets. Besides the Grand, an array of other unforgettable canyons invites exploration. Whether you prefer to do your canyoneering by car or on foot, here's a sampler of spectacular Arizona canyons.
Navajo Reservation
Pat Shannahan/The Arizona Republic Light paints the walls of Antelope Canyon.
Some canyons act as portals to other worlds, and if you've ever set foot in Antelope Canyon, perhaps the most famous slot canyon on Earth, you understand that sensation. Just east of Page, Antelope is a cavelike passage through water-sculpted sandstone that glistens with quartz crystals, which seem to rearrange the shafts of sunlight before your eyes. It is an ethereal experience. Both Upper and Lower Antelope canyons contain graceful, curving slotlike contours. You must have a guide to enter Antelope Canyon.
If you're seeking a slot-canyon experience without camera-wielding crowds, sign up for a tour of Canyon X. More remote and slightly deeper than Antelope, Canyon X receives far fewer visitors. It is accessible only through Overland Canyon Tours in Page. Groups are limited to six, allowing for a very personal experience.
North of Chinle, don't miss the chance to peer into the sculpted chasm of Canyon de Chelly. Anyone can take the stunning scenic drives along the rim of this elaborate canyon system, but to truly appreciate the heart-squeezing grandeur, hire a Navajo guide for a walk, horseback ride or four-wheel-drive tour. With a guide, you receive knowledge of the landscape and an understanding of the culture of the people who still farm within these sandstone walls. Except for hiking a short trail to White House Ruins, entering the canyon without a Navajo guide is prohibited.
Oak Creek Canyon
The Mogollon Rim slashes across the midsection of the state, forming the abrupt southern edge of the Colorado Plateau. The soaring escarpment creates optimum conditions for canyons as streams tumble from forested high country to the desert below, carving dramatic defiles along the way. The most famous of these is the 12-mile-long gorge of Oak Creek Canyon, and if you haven't made that drive, you really can't call yourself an Arizonan. But there are other canyons, equally beautiful.
Sycamore Canyon
Take a moment to imagine Oak Creek Canyon without the development. Imagine the same towering red-rock buttes and haunting formations but with no roads or resorts, no homes or hotels. You've just conjured an image of adjacent Sycamore Canyon.
At 20 miles long and 7 miles wide, Sycamore is the second-largest canyon in the state. Far from pavement, the rugged outback of the Sycamore Canyon Wilderness provides habitat for deer, mountain lions, black bears and hardy hikers seeking unspoiled beauty.
The Parsons Trail, which begins near Clarkdale, provides the easiest entry point, starting from the south and rambling through a shade-draped corridor alongside Sycamore Creek. During spring, a riot of wildflowers enhances the lush setting; in summer, several premier swimming holes beckon. Parsons Spring marks the end of the trail and the end of reliable water in Sycamore Canyon. The rest of the vast canyon is a fiercely scenic but arid wilderness.
Verde Valley
If you're looking for a wet-footed canyon experience, this is the right neighborhood. Fossil Creek, Wet Beaver Creek and West Clear Creek form three canyons that undercut the Mogollon Rim in slender riparian channels. Each of the waterways can be accessed via trails.
David Wallace/The Arizona Republic - Water flows down Fossil Creek at the old dam site outside of Strawberry on Tuesday, December 9, 2008. The restoration of Fossil Creek continues as the state grants it protected water status, APS moves toward removing the final pieces of its old hydroelectric operation and the Forest Service begins work on a plan to accommodate visitors to the popular waterway.
The Bell Trail explores the lower portion of Wet Beaver and leads to a renowned swimming hole, "the Crack," after 3 miles. Horseback riders can drop into Fossil Creek Canyon by the Mail Trail, a route once used by mail carriers traveling from Camp Verde to Payson. Note that the Forest Service recently imposed camping restrictions and campfire bans to protect the oasis of Fossil Creek.
The Bull Pen Trail leads into lower West Clear Creek, and the short, steep Maxwell and Tramway trails descend from atop the Mogollon Rim. The architecture of this narrow gorge creates a perilous, unique environment. Up to 2,000 feet high, sheer cliffs cradle the plunging waters. In many spots, the stream fills the canyon from wall to wall, requiring hikers to swim and wade through pools, not just once or twice but 15 to 20 times. Venturing into the inner portion of West Clear Creek Canyon should be attempted only by experienced canyoneers.
Southern Arizona
Here, isolated mountain ranges rise from the desert floor to form sky islands, or isolated ecosystems that occur at a high altitude. And where you have mountains, you're bound to have canyons. South of Tucson, in the heart of the Santa Rita Mountains, pyramid-shaped Mount Wrightson soars to 9,453 feet. Most people flock to nearby Madera Canyon for exquisite birding and the trails leading to Wrightson, but you can avoid the crowds by climbing through Florida Canyon. Along the way, you'll enjoy panoramic views and bursts of wildflowers. The canyon is named not for the state but for the Spanish word meaning flowery.
Northeast of Tucson, a perennial stream has carved out a trough up to 1,000 feet deep in the Galiuro Mountains. Aravaipa Canyon twists as a verdant ribbon through unrepentant desert. High cliff walls adorned with cactus overlook this splashy oasis, home to a diverse population of wildlife, including bighorn sheep. The canyon stretches for 11 miles, and wading the creek is often the only option. The canyon is a federally designated wilderness area managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Access is by permit only.
If you're looking for something other than hiking, drive Carr Canyon Road into the Huachuca Mountains, outside Sierra Vista. It is a steep, narrow, unpaved road with no guardrails, so use the pullouts to savor the jaw-dropping views across the San Pedro Valley. After snowmelt and heavy rains, spectacular Carr Canyon Falls can be seen leaping down the mountainside. You'll also pass the remains of an old mining town, called Reef, and a couple of beautiful campgrounds. The upper portion of the road is closed during winter.
